September 12 Vila Franca de Xira, Portugal
Day 1. Lisbon – Granja – Alverca – Alhandra. 38km. A big day in 30 degrees. We’ve met Canadians, Americans, French, Italians, an Israeli and four Australians. Accommodation is very light so we’re staying with the Bombeiros (Volunteer Firefighters) tonight. We had dinner with Michelle, a French station master from Lyon.
September 13 Azambuja
Day 2. Alhandra – Villafranca de Xira – Azambuja. 30 kms. 32 degrees. We got away @ 0615 and had a lovely walk along El Rio Tejo before turning away from the river and walking through post-apocalyptic wasteland thanks to the GFC. It seriously heated up and we followed rural lanes to Azambuja by 1330. We met a Canadian couple, Fred & Debbie Linton. This town has Albergues and Credencial stamps. This is getting more like the Caminos we remember.
September 14 Quinta da Burra, Porto De Muge
Day 3. Azambuja – Reguengo – Valada – Porto de Muge – Quinta da Burra. 18.7 kms. We left Azambuja @ 0530 to try and avoid the heat. We walked in the dark until 0700 then had a lovely stroll along the concrete levy bank beside el Rio Tejo to Quinta da Burra. Beers @ 1100. Quinta da Burra is a lovely homestead run by the delightful Paula.
September 15 Santarem
Day 4. Quinta da Burra – Santarem. 16 km. Another 0500 start to avoid the 35 silly degrees heat which got us to Santarem by 0900 so we dropped our packs @ the Albergues and explored the town. Strategically, Santarem ruled the Rio Tejo.
September 16 Casa do Adro, Arneiro das Milharcas
Day 5. Santarem – Azoia de Baixo – Advagar – Arneiro das Milharicas. 22 kms. We left Santarem @ 0515 and had a really soul destroying trudge through the outskirts, constantly looking for our route arrows, until sunrise and breakfast @ Azoia de Baixo. We also farewelled Fred & Debbie who are continuing on el Caminho Portuguese Norte while we head for Fatima. It turned in to a really lovely stroll along country roads and lanes, through natural cork forests and eventually to our albergue by 1130. It’s slowly turning in to a Camino.
September 17 Minde
Day 6. 20 kms. Ameiro das Milharicas – Monsanto – Covao do Felony – Minde. We left @ 0530 and started with a very long climb up a country lane to a ridgeline high above the valleys. We rambled along in the dark trying to identify the northern constellations. And then we were wandering through a eucalypt forest as the day lightened. It was a really beautiful morning’s stroll for 7 kms before breakfast amongst the Gumtrees. Mornos in Monsanto before a 400 m. climb to the pass above Minde and we were in our albergue by 1230. It was a wonderful day and certainly the best so far.
September 17 Minde
Guess what’s open for supper in rural Portugal on a Monday evening? Nada! Do you have any idea how much fun it is to order pizzas & vino tinto for 3 French, 1 German & 2 Australians in Portuguese via Google Translate? Feline mustering is easier! We walked to the supermecado (supermarket) to try to get something for dinner but it was shut. We did however meet the towns police chief who told us about the pizza shop.
September 18 Fatima
Day 7. Minde – Giesteira – Fatima. 15 kms. We left @ 0530 and again met the police chief on the road out of town with a large group of police. It looked like they were preparing a raid. We climbed another 300 metres up to the plateau where we walked through forests of eucalypts and wind turbines. Then an easy stroll across to Fatima by 1100.
September 20 Santuario Fatima ·
Day 8. We had a very relaxed rest day wandering around the pilgrimage sites and shrines. The entire town is very well set up to cater for the millions who visit here.
Lighten The Trip Fantastic 